Murrays summary:

Easily accessed with plenty of flights to Lisbon.  Estoril and Cascais are not just out-and-out holidays resorts, consequently Clubs have more of a Members feel about them and you will meet "real" people going about their daily lives - not just tourists!  Which also means you will find shops and restaurants at local prices.

Birdies:

•  A feel of real Portugal and the Portuguese lifestyle

•  A good variety of courses

•  Availability of flights to Lisbon - the capital city

Bogeys:

•  Resorts with multiple courses on-site

•  Golf in the very depths of Winter

Why go?

If you prefer the type of golf holiday where you discover a little more of the country you are in, rather than a golfing theme park style region that could be anywhere, then you will enjoy Estoril and Cascais.

These are real towns, admittedly with a strong accent on tourism, but you will also find plenty of people going about their normal business.  And if you come down out of season you won't find the whole place shut-down!

When to go?

The Estoril coast enjoys a good golfing climate nearly all year long.  The westerly ocean breezes alleviate the strong Summer sunshine (don't get caught out with sunburn - the UV rays still get through) and the weather is generally good from early Spring to late Autumn.  Winter is quite cool and breezy - but still warmer than northern parts of Europe.

Being exposed to the Atlantic you can have periods of heavy rain, but you would be extremely unlucky if these were to continue for days on end.

I would recommend March through to June and September through to mid-November for a warm golf trip and even December and January if you enjoy cool, quiet golf.

Where to stay?

The best place to stay in my opinion is Cascais.  It is a small coastal town that you can get to know in one evening's strolling and perfectly placed for getting out to the golf courses easily.  It has a busy little port with a fishmarket and plenty of shops bars and restaurants.  It does have a few "English Pubs" but these are all concentrated in one area and easy enough to avoid if you want to.  There is also a newly developed yachting Marina, just around the point, that has been tastefully done with boardwalks between the numerous bars and cafes.

Estoril is just along the coast and is famed for having the largest casino in Europe.  The casino is impressive, with Cirque du Soleil style shows taht you may watch over dinner in its impressive theatre.  But frankly there is not much else in town, apart from the splendid Hotel Palacio.  So dining out will normally involve a trip into Cascais eithe by taxi or the train that runs along the coast (two stops).

If you would rather stay on-course then the hotel and villas at Quinta da Marinha are a good spot, as is Viva Marinha just opposite.  From either it is only a five minute taxi trip into Cascais or Estoril and there are always plenty of taxis around (with meters!).

Lisbon itself is another possibility of you would like a golfing city-break.  The city is not too large and is built on the side of a hill that runs down to the mouth of the river Tagus.  Somewhere to consider staying in the Winter months as there would be plenty to see and do on rainy days.

Oitavos Dunes

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Murray's Word

One of Europe's finest courses and reason enough to travel to the Lisbon area.  The course sits right on the very western edge of Portugal on sandy soil, where the dunes have been stabilised through extensive planting of pines.  The course begins and ends amongst these low umbrella pines, twisted by the constant ocean breezes; the central section opens out onto broader terrain with magnificent views of Cabo de Roca - Europe's most westerly point.  Wind will affect just about every shot you play, lovers of links golf will be in their element.  Arguably a weak point of the design is back-to-back par threes on the way home; however the holes are so good that Arthur Hills felt obliged to go with the natural flow that the terrain suggested.  Clubhouse is a very modern glass and steel affair: an attractive break with tradition that many other classic links that have modernised of late could learn from...

Penha Longa

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Murray's Word

An inland course tthat contrasts and competes with Oitavos Dunes for the honour of the premier course in the Lisbon region.  Penha Longa is in the hills behind Estoril (on the road up to Sintra) and has a luxury hotel on site too.  The course rises and falls in the hills around the ancient monastery (and earlier Roman settlement). Many holes feature stark elevation changes so club selection and choice of strategy from the Tee is crucial.  A demanding course with the dense forest ever present frequently rendering wayward shots irretrievable.  There are several large water hazards too, in particular a long carry into the prevailing wind on the par three 15th will test your nerve.  The Clubhouse is very modern and sadly lacks a decent outdoor bar area, there is just a small verandah large enough for a few fourballs - a great pity given the frequency of warm sunny days.  The 9-hole Monastery course has been revamped in 2009 and maintained to a similar standard as the full "Atlantic" course - worth considering after lunch.

Quinta da Marinha

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Murray's Word

Quinta da Marinha is another resort course with a large hotel and conference facility behind the 10th Green (and water hazards).  The course itself sits amongst umbrella pines, only breaking free from the woods for a glimpse of the ocean as you near the end of your round.  The course is pleasant enough without being overly taxing, although in some areas the holes run quite closely together and it feels a little tightly-knit.  There are six par-threes (four of which are on the back nine) and the second hole seems out of place (you have to cross back over the first Fairway to third Tee).  So purists may find it a little unbalanced, but the holes taken on their individual merits are of classic Trent Jones design: plenty of sand and not a little water when you reach the hotel.  The Clubhouse has undergone a major renovation and will be open again in 2010.  It has a vast swimming pool too, so bring your swimmers!

Belas Clube de Campo

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Murray's Word

Belas is a little way inland from where most golfers stay in Cascais or Estoril and is an intriguing mix of terrain: part wild and natural, part residential development.  The course starts off in the wild stuff, disappearing over the brow of a hill into the woodland behind the Clubhouse.  Here there are some lovely holes in the depths and quiet of the woods.  Fairways are tight and quite often inclined and some tricky approach shots make accuracy paramount.  The course re-emerges from the woods at the turn and form the tenth onwards, changes dramatically in appearance with modern houses and flats built all around the course.  However they are all set well back so the affect on your game is more aesthetic than strategic.  No holes have been altered due to the construction so the layout remains true to Rocky Roquemore's excellent design.

Estoril

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Murray's Word

The better of the two "old courses" in the Estoril region (the other being Lisbon below).  Estoril is a Members club that has the scent of tradition around the Cluibhouse and course.  On the inland side of the town, the course is heavily wooded and falls away from the Clubhouse down to teh valley below.  Sadly the original design has been split by the new dual carriageway that runs in the valley bottom: there is a high bridge over the road that takes you to the other side.  This is quite a long walk so ask in the Clubhouse if they are running the buggy-taxi service across.  Aside from that the course is very enjoyable with well designed holes that are not too long but fairly tight and somewhat hilly in places.  An enjoyable contrast to the more modern designs and heavily discounted Green-fees are available if you stay at the Palacio Hotel in Estoril.

Quinta da Beloura

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Murray's Word

A fair course that sits nicely at the cheaper end of the scale of Green-fees in the area.  Of recent construction and style the course is a typical residential course that wends its way through the newly built houses (which are all fairly similar but pleasing enough).  The course is gentle test of golf with large Greens and obvious bunkering, so you know what you have to do.  There are a couple of water hazards too but these do not impinge too closely on your game - more scenic than strategic.

Lisbon

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Murray's Word

Lisbon is a very interesting Club; almost out of time and place amongst all the modern Clubs in Portugal with their swanky Clubhouses and expansive modern courses.  Lisbon was here before them all and is a very different affair.  The course is on a small patch of land, only just big enough for 18 holes.  The landscape is populated predominantly by parasol pines and the holes twist and turn through the trees often side by side and sometimes even criss-crossing where Tees have been pushed back to create some extra length.  Low Handicappers and Big Hitters may enjoy some of the other courses more.  Keep an eye out for the painting of the Queen in the old-fashioned Clubhouse - should it be Royal Lisbon I wonder???

Hotel Palacio***** - Estoril

Murray's Word

The Palacio is one of the oldest and finest hotels in the Lisbon region and has all the wonderful charm of an old classic.  The hotel's glittering lobby and entrance halls, dining rooms, and lounges with their high ceilings and period furnishings are impressive.  The bedrooms have been updated with air-conditioning and similar mod-cons, without destroyimg their original charm.  The hotel is at the centre of Estoril about 200yds from the giant "Casino do Estoril".  The cream building forms a U-shape around its garden and outdoor pool.  For dining, the “Four Seasons” restaurant serves a variety of Portuguese and European cuisine, other restaurants are a little scarce in Estoril so a trip to Cascais may be necessary.  The atmoephere within the fine old hotel is best described as "relaxed formality": friendly yet correct.  There is always a spotlessly uniformed doorman to wish you “Bom Dia” on your way out in the morning and no shortage of crisply starched barmen to welcome you back, yet you never feel that you can't relax.

N.B. The Palacio has very close ties with the Estoril Golf Club so you will be able to play there at greatly reduced rates midweek.

Hotel Baia*** - Cascais

Murray's Word

Holding the prime position in Cascais: at the end of the main street overlooking the town's small beach, the Hotel Baia is a great golfers' hotel.  From here you have easy access to all of the town's evening entertainments, the journey out to the golf courses is straightforward and there is a car-park under the hotel for ease of parking (with direct lift access into the hotel, locked at night).
The hotel itself is nothing fancy an honest three-star.  It enjoyed a total renovation in 2008/9 which brightened up the averagely-sized bedrooms and modernised the bar and restaurant areas as well as the exterior.  On the roof-top sun-deck there is a small enclosed pool (if you don't fancy the Atlantic Ocean on your doorstep). The sea-view rooms all have small balconies and there are four Suites that are not greatly more expensive and give you an extra sitting room.

Viva Marinha****

Murray's Word

The Viva Marinha is a new concept in hotellery for the Lisbon coast: an all-suite set-up with rooms arranged in blocks around a central reception, restaurant, bar and pool area.  Located opposite the Quinta da Marinha hotel and golf course it is a five minute taxi trip into town or a stroll down to the beaches.  A flexible style of accommodation with kitchenettes in all of the Suites and villas, but all built to a very high standard.

Vila Galé Cascais****

Murray's Word:

The Vila Galé is just on the western outskirts of town as you head around the point from Cascais out towards Quinta da Marinha and Oitavos Dunes golf courses.  From here it is just a five minute walk down to the Marina and another five from there into town proper.  The hotel was designed and built in the 1960's so the exterior lacks a little charm, however once inside it is bright and spacious with everything you might need for your stay.  The garden around the hotel has a pool with plenty of room on the grass for the loungers, inside there is a bar and restaurant: the new Marina is the closest spot for other restaurants.  A good four-star that offers a quieter location in exchange for a short stroll into town.

To be reviewed

Murray's Word

Out and about in Cascais

Originally a small fishing port outside Lisbon, the town of Cascais has grown into a thriving town, where the fishing industry is now just one of the strings in its bow.  There are plenty of places to eat, drink and be merry in Cascais.  The obvious strip of four or five "English Pubs" close to the ocean are hard to miss.  More refined dining is readily available in other parts of town. 

The area around the fish market (on the left of the high street as you face the water) has a row of great restaurants with tables both inside and out.  Some of the best are: O Pipas (214 864 501), O Batel (214 830 215), O Pescador (214 832 054).  As well as these you will find many other good restaurants as you stroll the black and white cobbled streets of Cascais.  At the top end of the main street you will find a real local favourite Jardim dos Frangos (no advance booking) who serve pretty much exclusively sardines, chilli chicken and beer at silly prices!  Opposite them in a little wooded park there is more expensive dining to be found in the Jardin Visconde da Luz (214 835 695) worth booking as it is popular, not large and not open in the early part of the week.  Along the coast you will find restaurants down on the beach who offer exclusively fish and seafood, the quality and setting are superb, try the Mar do Inferno (214 838 811) although be prepared to try your Portuguese as little else is spoken!

For a special evening out or a celebration, arguably the best restaurant in Cascais is on the coast just out of town on the road heading north: Monte Mar (214 869 270) has a wonderful setting and you are assured of an unforgettable dinner.

The newer development at the yachting marina has a variety of bars and restaurants that vary from pizzas and burgers to steaks and seafood.  Plus there is a good sprinkling of cafes and cocktail bars.  A nice spot for sundowners out on one of the rooftop decking areas.

Out and about in Estoril

Estoril is a strange town, it has the Palacio Hotel and the largest casino in Europe and that's really about all!  The casino is a huge gambling palace with slot machines, card tables etc. etc.  It also has a large auditorium where shows are put on over dinner - Las Vegas style.  Take a look at their website (click on the image opposite) to see what will be on during your visit: I have seen a couple of their "Cirque du Soleil" style shows which were very impressive.

Around and about Estoril and Lisbon

Other places to visit west of Lisbon include the lovely old town of Sintra with its brightly coloured palace on top of the hill above Penha Longa.  As well as the Sintra Palace, the town with its narrow hillside streets and whitewashed town hall is a great spot to while away anhour or two browsing the linen shops (a local handicraft).

Lisbon, the capital, is a much larger prospect and you should really count on spending a full day in the city to get to know all of its sights and attractions, such as Jeronimos Monastery (where Vasco de Gama is buried) and the iconic Belem Tower symbol of the city.  Aside from these and the museums the city itself is a nice enough place to discover on foot with many open spaces and large squares.  And if the hillier parts are too much you can hop on one of the yellow trams that clatter by every so often.  For more infromation on the city take a look at the Michelin Guide.

A drive around then coast out to mainland Europe's most westerly point Cabo da Roca along the coast road can be lovely on a sunny day (it will be windy too rest assured!) past the long sandy beaches of Guincho.

Nightlife

If you are after late night entertainment then the Casino do Estoril is a good place to start (see Estoril above).  In Cascais there are plenty of bars that stay open until the early hours, some of these are tucked away in the back streetss, but not too hard to find.  Lisbon has a plenty going on all year round.

Flights

The airport at Lisbon serves the whole of Europe with both traditional airlines and the new lo-cosy operators.  With so many people travelling to Lisbon on business there is no shortage of options - including First and Business Class flights.

Traffic around Lisbon can be quite thick during the midweek rush hours when it can take up to two hours to get out to Estoril and Cascais: under normal road conditions an hour would be plenty of time.

N.B.  Don't forget that TAP Air Portugal are one of the few airlines that still carry golf clubs for free!

Hover on a logo to see the available routes, clicking the logo below will take you directly to the airline's website to book your flights.

Hire cars

Probably the most flexible way to get around during your visit.  Both airports offer the full range of hire-car companies: Avis, Hertz, Budget, Europcar, Sixt et cetera, whose contact details are shown opposite (if you have not already been offered a hire-car by your airline when you booked your flights!).

Holiday Autos offer a 10% discount to Murray's Members off their already low rates.  Simply click on their logo opposite to be taken to their specially discounted website.

Chauffeur driven cars, minibuses and coaches

If you would prefer to leave the driving to somebody else then there are a number of local companies that will take care of all you transfer arrangements.

For larger parties, 10 - 24:

For small parties up to ten:

For full-size (50 seats) coach hire: