Murray's summary:

World renowned golf courses amidts unforgettable scenery.

Birdies:

•  Tremendous selection of golf courses - links & parkland

•  Beautiful countryside and coastline

Bogeys:

•  Slow drives between golf courses

•  Number of tourists in the Summer months

Why go?

The south-western county of Kerry holds some of Ireland's most fabled golf courses.  On top of which the town of Killarney is perhaps the best known tourist destination in Ireland - no self-respecting tour bus misses it.

The weather in Ireland is somewhat unpredictable throughout the year, as the Irish say "If you don't like the weather, just wait a while".  So you can expect to get wet at some point during your trip I'm afraid.  However most golfing hotels are well geared up for soggy golfers returning from the links and have adequate drying facilities and roaring fires to warm the bones.

When to go?

Anytime of year you can have clear blue skies; admittedly chilly in the Winter months (but with that crystal clarity of light) and in July and August you will encounter plenty of families on holiday, with consequently crowded roads and towns.

So in general, April, May, June, September and October are the better months for playing golf and getting around comfortably.

Where to stay?

In Kerry the obvious choice of homebase is Killarney with all of its hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs.  Plus it has a beautiful location on the shores of Lough Leane - the main reason that it has enjoyed such a boom in tourism over the last thirty years.

The other option is to stay in Waterville, especially now there is the new course at Skellig Bay to play.  Waterville is a much smaller seaside resort (a favourite of Charlie Chaplin by the way) where you will feel like you know most of the locals after just a few nights in town.

What to see?

All around the Kery peninsula the coastline is simply stunning, the drive around the coast road, known as the Ring of Kerry is one of the World's most scenic; take your time and enjoy the views.  Inland the countryside is a bright green and mainly grazing land, you will see cattle and sheep everywhere.  The only areas without livestock are the peat bogs a diminishing natural resource and a source of fuel.  The scent of turf fires is unmistakeable and hangs languidly blue in the air in all the west country villages as soon as the temperatures drop.

Killarney - Killeen

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Killarney Golf Club enjoys the most magnificent setting: beside the serene Lough Leane and overlooked by Torc and Mangerton mountains; it is an intoxicating scene.  The Killeen course starts by the lough shore following the water’s edge closely for the first four holes and is pure Killarney.  It then turns inland, amongst centenary oaks and beech groves and develops into a glorious parkland course with some unforgettable vistas of the lough and hills through the trees.  Lough Leane comes back into play on the short 15th with its island Green, before turning for home with three classy finishing holes bringing you back to the 18th Green under the gaze of the Clubhouse balcony.  Host to many great Championships, most recently the Irish Open in 2013 and 2011.

Killarney - Mahony's Point

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Named after the spit of land that juts into the lough, Mahony’s Point is generally regarded as the slightlier gentler of the two courses, but with arguably the more scenic holes (although the debate rages on…).  Conversley to Killeen the course heads away from the lake to begin with saving the watery holes for the closing stages.  The course design is superb, making the most of the natural contours of the landscape and fine established forest; with the lough in view all the time.  The Lough comes back into full panoramic view on your approach shot to the 16th, running along the full length of the 17th and finishing with arguably the best hole the par 3 18th over the deep blue into a Green fenced off by sand and spreading dark green cypresses.

Killarney - Lackabane

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Added to the Killarney golfing stable in the late 90’s to satisfy demand at the height of the Celtic golf boom, Lackabane is a very different beast to the other two classics.  Across the road and squeezed into a horseshoe of land around the enormous German tractor factory, Lackabane feels very out of place.  There are some good holes, but many are bland and featurless, running closely together.  Lots of local beginners and improvers come and play as a learning ground, which is great for those taking their first steps on the long road to golf…

Ballybunion Old

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In many ways the Grandaddy of links golf and the course that started all the ballyhoo in the USA for links golf.  Hardly surprising when you see it as it is a magnificent place to play golf.  The dunes are big and tumble down right to the ocean’s edge.  In between, there are Tees, Fairways and Greens – all you have to do is find them…   With its overwhelming popularity in the States (and elsewhere) the Club can feel a little un-Irish at times, filled as it usually is with returning emigrants and distant relatives.  However don’t let this discourage you as it is an exceptional golf course and there is always plenty of Irishness to be found in town.

Balybunion Cashen

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The other course at Ballybunion that exploits the excellent but previously untouched linksland on the southern side of the Clubhouse.  Another very good links course, just as entertaining and arguably more demanding than its elder brother.  Surprisingly (or not maybe?) an American was asked to design the course – Mr. R. Trent Jones Jnr.  He has done a respectable job, perhaps a little extreme in places with some tiny Greens and blind Fairways.  The Club is aware of these detractions and has embarked on a slow evolution of the course, guided by the Hawtree golfing dynasty, which will see the course soften and grow in stature.  You would be daft not to play the Cashen during your stay in Ballybunion.

Waterville

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Many of the world’s greatest courses involve a bit of effort to get to, Waterville is a bit of a trip from anywhere, but it’s worth every ounce of effort.  One of the world’s finest links courses without any question.  18 holes of pure links golf between the Atlantic Ocean and the peaks of McGillycuddy’s Reeks.  The first holes lead down to and around the Estuary with huge sand banks running alongside the 3rd.  From the 4th onwards the dunes and the challenge steadily mounts as the course returns to the Clubhouse at the halfway stage and then sets out again into the stern dunes of the back nine with the Atlantic creeping ever closer as you head for home.  An understated beauty, favourite of many Pros and Amateurs alike and it’s easy to understand why.
Clubhouse just about large enough to contain the post round exuberance.

Skellig Bay

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Quietly, two local landowners, aided by Ron Kirby of Old Head fame, have created a second golfing masterpiece in Waterville almost unnoticed.  Skellig Bay opened in 2006 and contrasts well with the Old Course.  The front nine leads inland and is a microcosm of the Kerry countryside complete with areas of bogland, dry stone walls, cairns for sightlines and the meandering river Fionglassa to contend with.  The back nine is on higher ground with exceptional views of the entire crescent of Ballinskellig Bay and Waterville town.  There are some unique hazards on this nine: stone bunkers add a modern twist; Ogham Stones and a Fairy Fort signs of the distant past.  One of the design philosophies was to use only local materials, engendering a very natural feel.  A few Fairways on the back nine are a little too wide – enjoy them now!  Clubhouse a very simple affair, sure to develop over the coming years.

Dooks

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Is there a finer setting for a golf course in the world?  Dooks sits on the northern edge of the Ring of Kerry (the world famous scenic drive) overlooking Dingle Bay with the full range of the Slieve Mish mountains on the Dingle peninsula stretching away before you: beautiful.  The land is perfect for golf and the course is a superb collection of old fashioned links holes: medium sized dunes, deep bunkers, a few blind shots and hard and fast Greens.  Some subtle course changes have eliminated the one or two areas of over exuberant design (the 13??? Green had barely one pin position); the Clubhouse modernised at the same time (probably a good thing).  The course is now harmonious, entertaining and fun.  Some might think it a little short on paper, I can assure you it’s long enough on grass.

Tralee

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A famous name in Irish links golf and just a short scenic drive from the centre of town.  The front nine is on fairly level yet interesting terrain (the tumultuous 6th Fairway for instance) that extends from the Clubhouse out to the river mouth with its two ruined watchtowers guarding the entrance from the sea.  These are very attractive links holes running close to the beach (huge at low tide) and delineated by the classic Kerry dry stonewalls in places.  The 9th returns to the Clubhouse, then the 10th heads off into the serious dunes of the back nine.  Dunes of this size so close to the water are rare and create some spectacular golf holes that you will never forget.  The knee-high Maram grasses that bind the dunes together must be avoided at all costs, tricky if the wind blows, which it normally does.  Good sized Clubhouse that has panoramic views of the course, a fine spot for post match reflection.

Ring of Kerry

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One of the more recent additions to the Kerry golf scene, the Ring of Kerry is mainly a woodland course that covers an area of land that rises gradually up from the inlet.  The Clubhouse sits about halfway up the slope and holes run along the hillside both above and below it.  The scenery is pure Kerry: green fields, dark hills and blue waters.  As you progress around the course there are frequent views down onto the surrounding landscape.  The course is quite a tough test of golf with water on the upper parts too, some tight Fairways to hit, elevation changes and a few slopes to contend with too.  You may have heard stories about the unplayable contours on the Greens, rest assured that these were re-structured in 2001 (frankly, some of the original Greens badly needed a rethink!).
All in all a great day out in the Kerry countryside, but quite a hilly course so a buggy maybe worth considering.

Beaufort

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Killarney’s other course, unknown to many, at their loss.  Beaufort is away from the Lakes of Killarney and is another lush parkland course in a peaceful, rural setting.  There was plenty of established forest to play with when designing the course, to which new plantations were added some 20-30 years ago and a couple of small lakes more recently.  The course is easily walked and the holes are a good variety of shapes and sizes, sure to entertain.  There was a plan in 2009 to add a hotel (does Killarney need more hotels?) and apartments beside the 18th, sadly this project was started but never finished.  Now two concrete shells can be seen across the lake alongside the 18th Fairway: testament to Man’s avarice perhaps?

Killorglin

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An unpretentious little Club, providing simple, good-value golf mainly for the locals.  Ex-farmland on a gently sloping hillside has been converted into 18 uncomplicated holes that run along side-by-side, separated by strips of young trees.  In another twenty years when the trees mature it will have a better look and feel.  Lush fertile soil means plenty of grass, which is neatly trimmed with hardly any rough and very good Greens.  Elevated Clubhouse has some nice views across the course to the distant hills.

Killarney Park***** - Killarney

Murray's Word

A classy five star hotel, yet with a warm friendly feel rather than stuffy ostentation: plenty of service on hand for you if you would like it but never intrusively.  The Killarney Park has several lounges and sitting rooms (all normally with fires burning) a traditionally styled Garden Bar, where food is available at lunchtimes.  The Park restaurant serves very haute cuisine, semi-formally (jackets not required) and the waiting staff will even be happy to chat to you, which is nice.  Bedrooms are a good size and all bathrooms have a bath and separate shower.  If you feel you need a little extra luxury, the Suites are very impressive indeed.  Large and modern in style with everything you could need including their own log-effect fires and several plasma TV screens (including one in the bath!).

Aghadoe Heights***** - Killarney

Murray's Word

A distinctive five-star hotel perched high above Killarney with panoramic views over the town, Lough Leane and the golf courses: the latter being just ten minutes away.  The Aghadoe Heights was built in the late sixties and its external appearance is very much of that era: angular with plenty of glass and timber cladding.  Internally it has undergone several transformations over the years and now offers some of the most luxurious up to date accommodation in Kerry.  Apart from the views the other plus points of the hotel are the exceptional service (nothing seems to be too much trouble) and the large spa (many stay here just for the pool and treatments).  The hotel has a good reputation for its dining, either in the a-la-carte Lake Room, or the more casual Heights Lounge.
A very comfortable out of town base, where you can spoil yourself with great food and a big spa.

Killarney Plaza***** - Killarney

Murray's Word

As you arrive in Killarney the Plaza Hotel is hard to miss standing right on the roundabout at the top of the High Street (Kenmare Place).  A big hotel with a very glitzy lobby that is all marble and gold.  Elsewhere the décor is a little more subdued but always making a statement nevertheless.  Bedrooms are a good size and well appointed, bathrooms too (all with jacuzzi baths).  The hotel has a multitude of facilities, several restaurants (including the haute cuisine Petrus) and bars, plus a late lounge downstairs.  One of the big draws is the impressive Molton Brown Spa (voted best in Ireland when it opened), which offers all manner of treatments in addition to its pool and whirlpools.  So if you need a little softening up before or after your game, the Plaza is a good spot!

Listowel Arms Hotel**** - Listowel

Murray's Word

A charming, family-run, boutique hotel in the very centre of Listowel that is a lot larger inside than it appears externally.  The late 18th Century frontage hides a 42 bedroom hotel that extends back as far as the river will allow.  Standard rooms are in the old part of the building and are filled with character: squeaky floor boards, crooked ceilings et al.  Superior rooms are in the newer parts and are larger with larger bathrooms that feature stand-alone roll top baths.  Throughout the hotel has some exceptional antique furnishings and a real air of refined elegance.  The hotel has a very good restaurant with tables looking out across the river to the racecourse on the far bank.  Food is also served in the bar in a more relaxed setting, as you might expect.

Ross Hotel*** - Killarney

Murray's Word

If the Ross isn’t the funkiest hotel in town, I’d like to know which is.   The listed exterior is pretty standard, the re-built interior diametrically opposite.  Ultra-modern furnishings and décor abounds with strong colours everywhere: you’ll either love it or hate it.  The underground restaurant serves brasserie-style dishes in a fun setting, the brightly coloured bar on the ground floor also offers food at lunchtimes and at weekends has an outdoor barbecue too.  The bedrooms are a good-size, jazzily styled and bathrooms all have baths and separate showers.  There is no car-parking at the hotel, however on request you may be able to park at its sister hotel the Killarney Park across the street.  Staying at either hotel you may charge bills to your room.

Killarney Towers**** - Killarney

Murray's Word

A very central location (whether you choose to use the front or rear entrance) for a large modern hotel (200 rooms).  The Killarney Towers is more of a complete tourist leisure centre, with indoor pool, three bars: O’Donoghue’s, which also offers food, Scruffy’s traditional bar and, for the young at heart, The Kube, Inishfallen restaurant and nightclub (The Crypt) on weekends.  The hotel has a car park underneath, although spaces are limited (advance booking of spaces is not currently permitted).

Killarney Avenue**** - Killarney

Murray's Word

One of Killarney’s smaller hotels with a more intimate feel that is evident form the moment you cross the threshold.  Although recently built, the Avenue has an air of traditional Irish charm, with dark woods surrounding the lobby and public areas of the hotel.  Rooms themselves are moderate in size and decorated in lighter colours, bathrooms are all in marble and feature jacuzzi baths.  The hotel is set back slightly from Kenmare Place so a little quieter too.   Guests at the Avenue may use the pool and leisure facilities at the Killarney Towers hotel (part of the same group).

Cliff House Hotel**** - Ballybunion

Murray's Word

Overlooking Ladies Beach in Ballybunion, the family run Cliff House Hotel is close enough to walk into town, but far enough for peace and quiet over sometimes lively holiday weekends.  The Cliff House offers unfussy accommodation with fairly sized rooms; some have sea-views and small balconies (request when booking) and bathrooms are small but tidy.  The restaurant, in its little conservatory extension, is one of the best in town; creative fish dishes are the speciality and there are great sunset views over the beach and emblematic ruined tower of Ballybunion.  Beside this is Bernie’s bar - large, welcoming and open late for residents.  The hotel owner and manager, Kevin O’Callaghan, is a very active Member of the golf club, so you will be in good golfing hands and he has added some convenient golfing touches such as the ground floor golf gear drying room, on the off-chance you might get wet...

Teach de Broc**** - Ballybunion

Murray's Word

One of Ballybunion’s best Guest Houses and right at the entrance to the Golf Club (you could easily walk to the first Tee).  Teach de Broc is a sizeable modern building with just fourteen bedrooms – consequently they are very spacious.  Their guests are almost exclusively golfers, so they are well acquainted with golfer’s needs, such as hot showers, good drying facilities, a comfortable lounge with a small bar off to one side.  Dinner is served in the surprisingly modern “Strollers” bistro at the far end of the lounge with a modern brasserie style ambience and the chefs in full view.  Should you wish to venture out, the walk into town in about twenty minutes, or taxis can be arranged by the owners Aoife and Seamus Brock.

Eviston House Hotel*** - Killarney

Murray's Word

In the very centre of town the Eviston House has the whole town of Killarney around and about.  It is an unpretentious hotel, deceptively large with extensions that run back behind the traditional frontage.  The hotel is very traditional in style especially around the Reception and lounge downstairs.  Bedrooms are adequate in size and kept clean and tidy.  Beside the Reception is the Coffee shop and daytime bar which has its own entrance from the High Street: towards the rear of the building is the main (evening) bar which is large and lively, particularly at weekends.  A recent addition is the small fitness room and hot-tub on the first floor.  Friendly staff and a good breakfast in the first floor restaurant, makes the Eviston House a good base for golfers who enjoy their nights as much as their days.

Dining out in Killarney

The streets of Killarney are busy pretty much everynight and the many bars are traditionally thronged with locals and visitors alike looking for a pint and a song.

For dining there are a similar number of options too, ranging from fast-food outlets, traditional Irish in many of the bars and some very good restaurants too.  Many of the latter are associated with hotels (but don't be discouraged by this).

One of the longest standing and best restaurants in town is undoubtedly Foley's (064 663 1217) attached to Foley's Guesthouse.  Just along from Foley's you will find Gaby's (064 66 32 519) another very good option for fish and seafood.

Dining out in Ballybunion

Ballybunion is a fairly simple seaside town with quite a seasonal trade, so outside of the main holiday periods it can be fairly quiet along the high street and seafront.  There will however always be at least half-a-dozen bars open for business!  At these times the hotel restaurants are probably your best bet - the small conservatory at the Cliff House Hotel is very good.

The town is worth investigating however and there are some good options,  If Harty-Costello's (068 27129) is open it is well worth a try, alternatively Coast Cafe (068 25830) is good for daytime snacks.

Dining out in Waterville

Waterville is a seaside resort and although the High Street is short it contains plenty of options for wining and dining.

For a taste of the Atlantic there is only one place The Smugglers (066 747 4330) right opposite the entrance to Waterville Golf Club.  In town, the Huntsman (066 947 4124) is a good option as is the simple An Corcan (066 947 4711) opposite the Butlers Arms Hotel (where the food is also very good).

Dining out in Listowel

Listowel is a fairly quiet Irish market town, although at weekends the locals appear from the surrounding hills creating more of a stir in town.  There are plenty of watering holes to choose from around the church square and forked High Street.

For dining I would recommend the restaurant in the Listowel Arms Hotel one of the best; elsewhere Allos (068 22 880) a bistro style establishment or Lawlor's (068 21 399) on the square, which is also good.

There is also an Indian and a Chinese, should you hanker for a taste of the Orient.

Flights

The easiest airport for Kerry is, not surprisingly, Kerry Airport.  However there are not a great number of flights to Kerry - Aer Lingus and Ryanair are the main operators.

Other airport options are Cork, which has plenty of flights and is about a two hour drive to Killarney.  Alternatively Shannon airport has an increasing number of fights including direct routes from the United States.

Hover on a logo to see the available routes, clicking the logo below will take you directly to the airline's website to book your flights.

A very useful site that searches all the major airlines and some of the "lo-cost" carries for you is Sky Scanner.  You can alter depature and arrival points, dates and times at will and the website will come back with several options almost immediately. Click the logo to give it a go.

Hire cars

Probably the most flexible way to get around during your visit.  Both airports offer the full range of hire-car companies: Avis, Hertz, Budget, Europcar, Sixt et cetera, whose contact details are shown opposite (if you have not already been offered a hire-car by your airline when you booked your flights!).

Holiday Autos offer a 10% discount to Murray's Members off their already low rates.  Simply click on their logo opposite to be taken to their specially discounted website.

Ferries

By sea there are routes from the UK into Rossalre from where it is about four or five hours across to Killarney.  You could also sail into Dublin Port or Dun Laoghaire, from where the drive would be a little further, but take around the same time as the roads are slightly faster.

Hover on a logo to see the available routes, clicking the logo below will take you directly to the ferry company's website to book.

Discounted ferry prices for Murray's Members - just click on the logo to lower the gangway to our exclusive Member rates.

Chauffeur driven cars, minibuses and coaches

Local Agencies

If you would prefer to leave the driving to somebody else then there are a number of local travel agents who will take care of all you transfer arrangements.

Rose Travel - Small and medium sized coaches, based in Tralee but wil cover most of the island of Ireland.

Tel: +353/0 66 713 7407         

Discounted rates for Murray's Members